Wednesday, September 10, 2025

Makkarónugrautur

Macaroni groats


I'm in an Icelandic Facebook group (Facebook is a big thing in Iceland anyway) about "gamaldags matur", or old-fashioned Icelandic food. A while back, the topic was makarónugrautur, or macaroni porridge - a kind of milk noodle soup, I'd say.

A special highlight of the dish was that the milk noodle soup was served with sugar and cinnamon - and with chopped liver sausage.

A few years ago, I came across a recipe for rice pudding with liver sausage, which was a bit unusual for me as a Central European, but it tasted much more harmless than it sounded and was actually quite delicious! So I absolutely had to try the recipe for milk noodles with liverwurst... My kids also thought the dish was delicious, but preferred to just add sugar and cinnamon and skip the liverwurst – incomprehensible, right?!?


Ingredients for 4 servings

150 g macaroni pasta
300 ml water
1 l milk
70 g sugar
1 pinch of salt
1 tsp vanilla sugar or similar

sugar cinnamon
liver sausage


Preparation

Bring the water to a boil and cook the noodles in the hot water for about 8 minutes, until they are almost tender.


Then drain the water.

Add milk, sugar, salt, and vanilla to the pasta and simmer, stirring frequently, until the pasta is tender and the dish begins to thicken.


The milk noodles are served hot, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon if desired - or (!) in the traditional way with liver sausage.


Bon appetit!




[Translated from here.]

Monday, September 8, 2025

1238

1238 - The Battle of Iceland


This was the reason for our spontaneous vacation in the north – a friend was traveling with her son in northern Iceland this summer. She loves making quilts and was eager to visit the Textile Museum in Blönduós. Apparently, her son wasn't quite as enthusiastic about it, so he was allowed to request that they also visit the 1238 Museum in Sauðárkrókur. Indeed, not only was her son (an avid Viking fan) thrilled with the museum, but her friend herself was also blown away.

For us, it was a great opportunity to say, let’s go there sometime!

I actually hadn't heard of it before. The Museum 1238 (Orrustan - The Battle of Iceland) has been located here in the heart of Sauðárkrókur, at Aðalgata 21, since 2019.


The museum is an interactive experience, taking visitors directly to the Vikings and the battle of 1238. Through virtual reality, visitors can travel back in time and participate in the battle.


In the first room, you learn about the background and conditions in Iceland surrounding the Battle of Örlygsstaðir in 1238. Who fought against whom, why, how did it come about, and what happened next? The display boards and interactive areas in the first room attempt to answer these questions.


In the second room, newly made garments are used to learn about the clothing that the Vikings probably wore at that time.



Finally, in the third room, you were greeted by a friendly employee, taken to your VR cabin, equipped with glasses, a vest, and control devices, and finally sent into a virtual battle.


After some initial technical issues, my husband was quite enthusiastic about the experience; he thought it was fun. Personally, I - well, it was an experience. Even though I almost fell over when I was supposed to bend down to throw the stones, and then I just wanted to hide behind my shield and wait for the battle to end...

However, virtual reality is sometimes quite idiosyncratic – some things just don't work. At the end, you have to grab a specific spear and hand it over to the victorious leader. My friend tried to pet the horse instead of handing it over, but that didn't work. And my husband tried to hit the horse with a spear during the battle – following the motto, if he hurls stones, he'll never hit anything. The horse was so big and so close, he thought, maybe he'd at least hit that – but that didn't work; the spear always disintegrated in flight. Reality just wouldn't listen...

After the victorious battle, we didn't immediately return to the present, but first we could help ourselves to the museum's relatively large collection in a corner and even transform ourselves into a Viking. Dressing up was fun! Even though I was told afterward that I looked like a forest gnome with a mead horn... well then, cheers!


Finally, we briefly visited Gránabúð, the museum's souvenir and gift shop . The shop specializes in handmade products, Icelandic design, and Viking memorabilia, and I could have been tempted by one or two of the items...


Overall, we spent much longer in the museum than we expected - about two hours. And it was definitely an experience.



Digression: What was the shaft of 1238 about?

The battle of 1238 is arguably the largest battle ever fought on Icelandic soil. A total of around 3,000 men are said to have fought in the battle, and 49 were killed . It was a battle between three rival clans that ultimately marked the end of Iceland's independence.

The continued feuding between the Icelandic family clans eventually led to the intervention of the Norwegian King Haakon IV (1204-1263). Weakened by the constant fighting and facing the threat of a trade boycott by Norway, the Icelandic chieftains submitted to the Norwegian king in 1262 and swore allegiance to him.

Örlygsstaðabardagi - The Battle of Örlygsstaðir

The Battle of Örlygsstaðir took place on August 21, 1238 at the Örlygsstaðir farm, in Skagafjörður, on the east side of the Héraðsvötn, about 35 km south of the present town of Sauðárkrókur.

Here the Sturlungar family clan from the north of Snæfellsnes fought against the Ásbirningar family, the descendants of Öndóttur kráka Erlingsson, one of the first settlers in Skagafjörður, and his great-grandson Ásbjörn Arnórsson, as well as against the Haukdælir family, descended from Ketilbjörn the Old, who lived in Haukadalur in Biskupstungur.

The battle is considered to be the largest battle ever fought in Iceland - it is said that about 1,300 men fought on the Sturlungsvík side, and about 1,700 men fought on the Ásbirningsvík and Haukdalir sides.

In the battle, 42 men from the Sturlungar side are said to have been killed, including the two leaders, as well as 7 men from the opposing side.

The Sturlungar

The "founding father" of the Sturlungs is considered to be Sturla Þórðarson (1115-1183), also called "Hvamm-Sturla" after his residence in Hvammur. He inherited the local goddom from his father. He was known for his stubbornness and was at odds with many men. Sturla was married at least twice and had at least five legitimate and seven illegitimate children.

From his second marriage, he had sons Þórður Sturluson (1165-1237), Sighvatur Sturluson (1170-1238), and Snorri Sturluson (1179-1241). Snorri is still famous today as a historian, politician, and poet, including as the author of the Snorra Edda .

Their leaders in the battle of 1238 were Sighvatur Sturluson and his son Sturla Sighvatsson (1199 - 1238).

Sighvatur's eldest son, Tumi (1198-1222), had clashed with Guðmundur Arason (1161-1237), Bishop of Hólar, also known as Guðmundur the Good. Tumi had driven the bishop from Hólar. As a result, one night the bishop's men ambushed Tumi and his men and killed him—apparently to the bishop's displeasure. The bishop fled with his men to Grímsey to escape the Sturlungs' revenge. But this did not help him much, for Sighvatur and his son Sturla pursued them and avenged Tumi's death in the spring of 1222 by slaying many of the bishop's followers and exiling the bishop himself to Norway for several years.

Finally, in 1233, a reconciliation was reached between the bishop, father Sighvatur, and son Sturla. However, Sturla was forced to undertake a pilgrimage to Rome and do penance for his father's and his deeds. Sturla then traveled first to Norway and then, on behalf of King Hakon IV Hakonsson (1204-1263), set out for Iceland with the mission of bringing Iceland under the rule of the Norwegian king.

With his father, Sighvatur, Sturla wanted to expand their domain and thus the sphere of influence of the Norwegian king. The two apparently planned to attack Kolbeinn the Young, a member of the Ásbirningar family, at his farm in Flugumýri. (Incidentally, Kolbeinn the Young had married Hallbera Snorradóttir, the daughter of Snorri Sturluson, in 1224, but the marriage was unsuccessful and ended in divorce after a few years.)

However, the Sturlungar probably took too much time.

Before they began their attack, Kolbeinn's ally, Gissur Þorvaldsson, from the Haukdælir family, arrived with his men after Easter via Héraðsvötn. (Incidentally, Gissur had also married Ingibjörg, a daughter of Snorri Sturluson, in 1224, but the marriage failed relatively soon after the death of their son.)

Together, Kolbeinn, Gissur, and their men managed to surprise the Sturlungar, who were seeking refuge at Örlygsstaðir. It wasn't a good refuge, however; most of the men apparently didn't even make it to their horses or weapons, and it is said that the battle didn't last long.

In the following period, Gissur Þorvaldsson became one of the most powerful chieftains in the country, especially after he had Snorri Sturluson, his former son-in-law, killed on the orders of the Norwegian king in 1241.

In the Battle of Haugsnes in 1246, the bloodiest battle in Icelandic history with a total of around 110 deaths, Gissur and the Ásbirningar were defeated by the leader of the Sturlungar, Þórður Sighvatsson (a son of Sighvatur Sturluson, who had been killed in the Battle of Örlygsstaðir in 1238).

After losing the battle, Gissur fled to Norway, where he initially encountered difficulties with the Norwegian king, but was able to regain his favor and finally returned to Iceland in 1252 to attempt to bring the country under the rule of the King of Norway. In 1253, he settled in Flugumýri in Skagafjörður, the former estate of Ketill the Young, who had died in 1245.

To end the conflict between the Sturlungar and Haukdælir families, Gissur sought reconciliation.

Part of this agreement was the wedding on October 18, 1253, between Gissur's 18-year-old son Hallur Gissurarson and Sturla Þórðarson's 13-year-old daughter Ingibjörg Sturludóttir from the Sturlungar family.

Flugumýrarbrenna - The fire of Flugumýri in 1253

However, not all members of the Sturlungar agreed with this planned reconciliation.

For example, Þuríður, an illegitimate daughter of Sturla Sighvatsson, called on her husband Eyjólfur Þorsteinsson in front of witnesses to avenge her father's death.

And when Hallur and Ingibjörg's wedding feast in Flugumýri was over and most of the guests had left, Eyjólfur and his men attacked the farm and burned it down on October 22, 1253. Many people died in the fire, including the groom, his two brothers, and their mother. Gissur himself survived by hiding in a barrel of skyr. The bride also survived; she was carried from the burning house by one of the arsonists, her cousin Kolbeinn Dufgusson, and taken to safety in the farm's church. (Inibjörg remarried a few years later and lived with her husband and children in Eyjafjörður.)

Gissur swore revenge, but could not capture Eyjólfur.

But Eyjólfur eventually fell out with Þorgils Böðvarsson, a member of the Sturlungs family, who, however, was descended from the Ásbirnings on his mother's side, and disagreed with Eyjólfur's claim to supremacy in Skagafjörður. Eyjólfur was killed in a battle against Porgils and his men in 1255.

In 1262, the Icelandic chieftains finally agreed to the Old Treaty (Gamli sáttmáli), which had also been mediated by Gissur. Under this treaty, the Icelandic chieftains submitted to the Norwegian King Haakon IV and recognized him as King of Iceland, also paying the corresponding tribute to the king. In return, the king pledged to maintain trade with Iceland and to supply the country with the essentials every year.

Gissur finally killed one of the treaty's opponents in 1264, but little is known about Gissur's final years. He is said to have died in early 1268, before he could carry out his final plan of entering a monastery.

With the Old Treaty and the death of Gissur, the Sturlungar era and the period of Icelandic independence finally came to an end.



[Translated from here.]

Sunday, September 7, 2025

Mars-Snúðar

Mars rolls


I love cinnamon rolls, pretty much in every situation. And in many different variations. But of course, there are more than just cinnamon rolls – I recently came across a recipe for rolls with little pieces of Mars chocolate, and I just had to try that!

Memo to myself:

Next time I'll try the recipe with licorice chocolate; I imagine it would be delicious too!


Ingredients for about 20 rolls

150 ml lukewarm milk
1 tsp dry yeast
2 Tbsp sugar
50 g soft butter
1 egg
1 pinch of salt
350 g flour
2 - 3 Tbsp lukewarm water
1 - 3 Tbsp flour

180 g Mars chocolate
30 g butter


Preparation

For the dough, put all ingredients (except the water) into a large bowl...


...and knead thoroughly.


If the dough is too dry, add more water in portions until a good consistency is achieved.

Cover the yeast dough and let it rise.


For the filling, melt the butter and let it cool slightly.

Cut the Mars chocolate into small pieces.


Divide the dough into two parts, knead briefly again, and add a little more flour if the dough is still too sticky.


Then roll out half the dough...


... and brush with half of the melted butter.


Then spread half of the chopped chocolate over the dough...


... and roll it up as tightly as possible.


Cut the dough into slices about 2/3 inch (1.5 cm) thick.


Then place the snails on a baking tray lined with baking paper and let them rise for another 30 minutes.


Repeat the same with the second half of the dough.

Preheat the oven to 350 °F (resp. 180 °C) upper and lower heat.

Bake the snails in the preheated oven for about 15 to 30 minutes until they are golden brown.


Let it cool a bit and then serve.


Bon appetit!



[Translated from here.]

Wednesday, September 3, 2025

Gúrkuídýfa

Cucumber dip


Recently, someone was searching an Iceland Facebook group for a recipe for a specific cucumber salsa. Yes, of course, cucumbers aren't "traditionally Icelandic". The first confirmed reports of attempts to grow cucumbers in Iceland date back to 1890 - and back then, only five cucumbers were harvested; it didn't go well. Cucumbers and the Icelandic climate don't mix particularly well.

The first Icelander to cultivate cucumbers using hot springs in Iceland was probably the horticulturalist and later shipowner and herring manufacturer Óskar Halldórsson (1893 - 1953), who cultivated cucumbers with more success in 1913/14 in Reykir in the municipality of Mosfellsbær.

Today, cucumbers in Iceland are grown in greenhouses using geothermal energy, and around 99% of the cucumbers sold in Iceland are also grown in Iceland.

In Icelandic cuisine, cucumbers are mainly used fresh or sweet and sour.

In an old newspaper article from Morgunblaðið from 1985, I also found a recipe online for a cucumber dip - with sour cream, blue cheese, and ground, salted peanuts. I thought it sounded so interesting, I had to try it!


Ingredients

1 cucumber
200 ml sour cream
100 g salted peanuts
100 g firm blue cheese


Preparation

Set aside a few peanuts for decoration and grind the rest with a blender.


Cut the firm, preferably crumbly blue cheese into small pieces.


In a large bowl, thoroughly mix the sour cream with the ground peanuts and the crushed blue cheese.


Peel and grate the cucumber, add it to the dip and stir in.


Season to taste with some fresh pepper if desired.


Pour the dip into a fresh bowl or dish, scatter the peanuts on top for decoration, and then serve well chilled with cookies, crackers, or similar.


Bon appetit!




[Translated from here.]