Grindavík is open to the public again
On Monday, October 21, 2024, the town of Grindavík reopened to the public after more than 11 months of closure.
Since November 10, 2023, access to the city has been restricted for security reasons. In some cases access was completely forbidden. Often only people who lived or worked there or had special errands to do were allowed into Grindavík. Access was controlled. Now the city has been “reopened”. The main purpose of the opening is to give the companies that are still operating locally a possible perspective - to "supply oxygen" to them again, as it is said here.
Access to the city is currently no longer restricted as of October 21, 2024. The whole place is a designated danger area.
There can be unexpected cracks and cracks in the ground anywhere that you can fall into. One person has already died in such a crevice. That's why it's important to only walk on the streets and not enter properties or open spaces.
The fenced areas may not be entered! Traffic in and out of the city is monitored electronically, for safety reasons in the event of a possible evacuation.
Everyone in Grindavík stays in the danger zone at their own risk. Everyone is responsible for their own actions and inactions.
Grindavík is not a place for children. Under no circumstances should you leave children unattended here!
Large signs give instructions:
Leave the place when the civil protection sirens sound. In the event of an evacuation alarm, follow the marked escape routes.
Large, green signs clearly indicate the escape route in Icelandic and English: Flóttaleið. Emergency exit.
Also important - respect for the residents. So many people have lost their houses and apartments, their familiar surroundings, their neighbors, their jobs, their schools, their clubs. It is therefore important to at least behave sensitively on site. You do not enter private property. And you don't look into the windows of the abandoned houses.
Also important for visitors: There are currently no public toilets in Grindavík. Guests can only use the toilets in restaurants that are open, such as in this pizzeria
In addition to the pizzeria, there are a few other businesses in Grindavík that are currently open, such as a fish restaurant at the harbor that offers lunch on weekdays, a bakery that is currently open again in the mornings, a mechanic's workshop and even a guesthouse reopened earlier this week. Other companies also plan to open as soon as the necessary repair work is completed.
Our trip to Grindavík on the second day of opening
We were scheduled to go to Reykjanes on Tuesday (October 22nd) and we had to go to the airport. When the opening of Grindavík was announced a few days before, we decided we would go there for a bit.
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Velkomin til Grindavikur - the old welcome sign above the city |
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View of the city from above and the new lava
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Oppressive atmosphere on site
There is an oppressive atmosphere on site. The empty city, almost no cars in front of the houses, no flower pots in the windows, curtains on the windows in front of empty apartments, no pedestrians, no children playing... just deep cracks, more or less destroyed houses, cordoned off areas and silence.
Just the way into the city makes you aware of where you are - the new road leads over fresh lava, there is steam on the right and left of the road. No place to stay here.
We passed the
remains of the power line on the road. This power pole here, on its elevated plateau, had stood high enough to survive the lava flow, but the lines had collapsed in the heat and the poles closer to town were left as black, charred ruins above the fresh lava.
At the beginning of the town you pass the Nettó supermarket. Nettó was the only grocery store in Grindavík, but now it is closed. I remember that we used to go shopping here, it was a lively, lively place full of people and in the store they played the ESC song "Satellite" by Lena Meyer-Landrut, so it must have been in the summer of 2010. Nowadays the place is quiet and empty.
Photo exhibition at the entrance to the town
A photo exhibition is now set up in an empty parking lot next to the Nettó parking lot.
Since January 2020, the photographer Sigurður Ólafur Sigurðsson has regularly accompanied people on site for civil protection and emergency management and has captured and documented the events in the city in his pictures on around 70 trips so far.
In October 2024 he published his photo book “Reykjanes vaknar” (= “Reykjanes awakens”). On over 400 pages he documents the history of the place during this time with around 500 selected images and short texts.
Around 20 of these pictures can now be viewed on site in this photo exhibition in Grindavík and they tell of the earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, the destruction, but also the people's fight for the place, of solidarity, ingenuity and courage and the collective Power of the Icelanders.
Since the evacuation in November 2023, Grindavík has been a more or less abandoned city. In the meantime, residents were able to return to the city. On average, people are currently staying in up to 60 houses in the town, but often there are only around 30 houses.
Here, in front of the city's former sports center, you can clearly see the damage caused by the earthquakes in the cordoned off area.
For comparison, here is a picture from a newspaper article by Ragnhildur Helgadóttir in Morgunblaðið (
mbl.is) from November 13, 2023. A member of the rescue team is standing here and looking at the deep crack in the street that has opened up here, smoking. But the parking lot in front of the sports center is still a flat area, cars are parked here, police officers and members of the rescue teams are walking around and the lanterns are still up.
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Source: mbl.is from November 13, 2023 |
Things are different now. The earthquakes tore the entire area apart. The road is now usable again, you drive over a large wall that they used to fill and bridge the cracks. But the damage is obvious: one half of the footpath was simply moved up about a meter, or the other half was moved down, I have no idea. You really can't see at what level the path used to run here, and both below and above the crack there is a solid level - just "offset", but complete, with everything that stood on it. Some lanterns along the path are still there, others are no longer there, and the power lines have also been torn.
I can't imagine what forces were at work here.
Many areas in the city are completely cordoned off, and residents are no longer allowed to go there for safety reasons.
In some cases larger areas of the city are cordoned off, in other cases “only” individual rows of houses that are particularly affected.
There are large barriers from the hardware store everywhere that completely block off entire neighborhoods and paths. And steam rises from the remaining cracks in the road...
The massive damage caused by the earthquakes is clearly visible on many houses. Many wooden structures on the roofs cracked. Corrugated iron exterior cladding simply fell off. Deep cracks run through the concrete of the houses, like here in the window next to the door and on the facade.
The notes that people hung on the windows during the evacuation on November 10, 2023 in accordance with the evacuation plan for the city are still hanging on a number of windows as a simple message to the rescue workers: "Farin". Gone. Gone. All gone, no one there anymore. This meant that the rescue workers were able to ensure more quickly that the entire area had actually been cleared.
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Source: mbl.is from November 13, 2023 / Photo Brynjólfur Löve
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Today the message on the pieces of paper has faded, but many of the pieces of paper are still hanging, clearly visible in the windows.
Here is a current photo of the Víðihlíð nursing home in Grindavík - the nursing home building was severely damaged by the earthquake in the early evening of November 10, 2023, the burst water pipes had flooded several parts of the facility and in one place the building is almost in split into two parts. The facility was evacuated by the Þorbjörn rescue team, before the general evacuation of the city.
After a short, oppressive stay, we left the city again towards Keflavík.
The Suðurnes police chief told the Morgunblaðið newspaper yesterday that the influx to Grindavík after opening to the public on Monday was not large. There has not been much tourist traffic in the city so far.
History of the evacuation of the city on November 10, 2023
The evacuation of Grindavík with its around 3,300 residents took place on the evening of November 10, 2023, after strong earthquakes and massive damage occurred on site. The strongest quake had a magnitude of 5.2. Street 43, the Grindavíkurvegur, was literally torn apart by the quakes around 8 p.m. As the evening progressed, massive damage to buildings in the area was reported. At around 10 p.m., the civil defense decided, in consultation with the experts, to evacuate the place. From 11 p.m., people were asked to leave their homes in an orderly manner - turn off electricity, turn off water, pack and take medicines and personal items with them, if necessary on pillows and blankets for the night. The evacuation was completed around 3 a.m. Subsequently, most of the rescue workers were withdrawn for safety reasons.
On December 18, 2023, an eruption occurred north of Grindavík, but only briefly. An attempt was then made to secure the location again. Numerous ramparts were built around the city and the infrastructure, which subsequently proved to be very effective. Without these protective walls, the city might no longer exist.
A fatal accident occurred on January 10, 2024 during work to fill the resulting cracks in the area. While shaking the filling material, the 50-year-old worker fell into a crack that appeared relatively small on the surface, but which widened extremely downwards. Despite an intensive search, the man could no longer be found.
The next volcanic eruption followed on January 15, 2024. Lava flowed from a smaller fissure that opened very close to the city. Three houses burned to the ground.
The damage to the site is considerable. At least 74 houses were completely destroyed by the earthquake, and many other houses were also massively damaged.
The government supported the residents of Grindavík, the Grindvíkingar, in finding alternative housing, both through special offer portals and financially through housing benefit. The insurance pays for completely destroyed houses; for other buildings, the state will buy up private apartments and houses from residents of Grindavík for 95% of the fire insurance value until the end of 2024 upon request. There is currently no comparable regulation for commercial real estate.